As the name suggests, this new formula also includes SiC (Silicon Carbide) for additional resistance against chemicals. We have also greatly improved ease of use, resistance to water spotting and even amped up the gloss! Finally, the slickness will leave you thrilled with the finished product.

SiC FAQ📖

Q: How long does it last?

Well, this depends on many factors. Is the vehicle summer-driven or winter-driven? And how often it’s taken care of and topped up with Reload or Elixir. Normally for our climate in Canada, we often suggest applying 2 layers, it’s not going to double the longevity of the coating but perhaps still a good ~20%+ boost over a single-layer application. Since the vehicle is already clean and prepped, might as well do a second layer, preparation takes time but applying is easy. If the vehicle is summer only and maintained once a month then yes, the SiC will last at least 2 years and beyond fairly easily. But if it’s a daily that’s used throughout the year (especially winter), then maintenance will play a key role in longevity. If not maintained or topped up during winter months (I know it’s hard to do anything when it’s -30C out), then you’ll notice the lower sections will wear off from the salts, road chemicals, contaminants etc. Perhaps water beading will come back again after decontamination (coating plugged up with traffic film), but don’t be surprised if the lower sections are ‘gone’ after winter. And I think that’s fair and rightly so, considering the brutality of our winter here (in Calgary, at least). The most important part is, the coating did its job, it’s to wear off first before getting to the paint.

Q: When do I wipe it off?

This depends on the ambient temperature. Some say wait till it ‘rainbows’, some say a few minutes. Normally it ranges between 5~10 minutes for the SiC. The general rule of thumb is when wiping the coating off, it shouldn’t feel overly tacky, it should be somewhat easy to wipe off.

Q: Do I apply Reload after an hour?

This is up to the debate, but personally, I suggest against it. The idea is, you want the coating to fully cure and harden first before applying anything over it. If Reload is applied too quickly, the solution can remove the SiC as you’re wiping. Just don’t do anything to it for a week. So that brings us to the next question:

Q: Can I layer it and the time in between?

Yes, you're encouraged to layer, but not too quickly. Normally we suggest you wait anywhere between 2~4 hours in between layers, but preferably not over 24 hours. This is because if you waited too long, you’re applying the 2nd layer onto something that’s already hardened and slick, and it’s not going to bond too well. If applied too quickly, the solvents of the 2nd layer will soften the first layer and you end up with one layer. You want the 2nd layer to go on when the first layer is somewhat still curing, so they’re more cohesive; you want the coating to be still physically layerable but bond well at the same time.

Q: How much will the bottle do?

A mid-sized vehicle, say a Camry, will consume about ~15ml per layer. A mid-sized SUV is around ~20ml and a full-sized truck 25~30ml.

Q: What can I layer it with?

You can layer it by itself (SiC) it’s no problem, you don’t technically have to use CQUK as base and Gliss as top, but here are some benefits if you do: CQUK is more chemical tolerant (though not as slick), can be a strong base for SiC to layer onto. SiC is already slick, but Gliss is even more slippery, Gliss helps with self-cleaning (stuff just falls off quicker).

Q: After coating, when can I take the vehicle out?

A general rule of thumb: no water for 24~48 hours and no soap for a week.
But yes, after coating, you can take the vehicle out right away, dust & the wind won’t affect it, but be mindful that bugs will. If you’re a business and coating for a customer and the vehicle must leave and see water in the next 12 hours, then very gently wipe it down with Reload or Release. Still suggest against it, but what must be done, must be done. Drying and curing are very different: the coating/panel is dry to the touch right away but curing involves the locking of molecules, it needs time to cure.

Q: How cold (or hot) can I apply the coating?

At least 10C, but you can also try your luck between 5~10C. 25C is getting on the warmer side. Basically, you want the coating to be able to sit on the panel and not flash right away for at least 5 minutes. If it flashes in a minute, then the panel is likely too hot.

Q: Must I apply it indoors?

No, just make sure there’s no dust on the panel during application, and no water/moisture post-application.

Q: What do I maintain it with and how often?

Reload, Elixir, Reset, HydroFoam, Hydro2Lite etc., and as often as you like. The only product to be mindful of is Reset, make sure to follow the dilution instructions, too much of any soap can have an effect on the coating/wax/sealant, it’s a detergent after all.

Q: What can I wash it with afterwards?

Any pH-neutral soap is fine, Carpro recommends Reset and HydroFoam. Preferably no Wash and “Wax” products. I mean you can, but normally a wash and ‘wax’ product will mute the water-beading behaviour of your coating. Becomes less hydrophobic after wash, who would want that?!

Q: What’s the expiration date when the bottle’s still capped?

It used to be 2 years, but Carpro no longer stamps an expiration date, because coatings are solvent based and very chemically stable. Let’s just say 2~3 years for now.

Q: What’s the expiration date after opening the bottle?

There’s no official word on this, but the general rule of thumb is that when you opened the bottle, solvents will start to escape and for some products and might start to crystalize from within the bottle. So, normally we suggest using up the bottle in 3 months. I personally have coatings from a while back, it still ‘works’, but boy was it hard to buff off (let’s just say it didn’t stay hydrophobic for too long).

Q: Can I apply it to Trim & Plastics?

Sure, won’t darken like DLUX does, but it’s fine.

Q: Can I apply it to PPF?

Yes, and you should do that. Films are soft and porous, you want to coat them to prevent etching and contaminants getting absorbed into the film (bird poop, bug guts etc). Modern PPF films are already hydrophobic, but still, you should still apply something over it to prolong the film’s life.

Q: Can I apply it to Glass?

Yes and no. SiC is meant to bond to paint, glass/windows have different porosity, and may not bond too well. No problem if you like to apply on windows but should avoid the front windshield, your wipers may chatter (depends on your wipers & washer fluid).

Q: Can I apply it to Wheel?

Sure, but wheels can have a finish of powder coat, chrome, metal, anodized, painted etc., best to use Carpro DLUX, adhesion is better on multiple types of surfaces (and heat resistant too).

Q: Can I apply it to chrome/metal?

Sure, it works, but coating adhesion may not be as strong as DLUX.

Q: Can I do interiors with it?

Yes and no, as long as the surface is painted, glossy and smooth.

Q: Does it look good?

Of course, it does! Coatings will give a ‘glassy’ finish vs waxes/sealant.
Even after polishing, the paint is still undulating microscopically, the coating can go in there to ‘fill’ and make the surface less undulating, meaning light reflects more evenly thus more gloss.

Q: Can it be shipped in the freezing cold?

Yes no problem, coatings are solvent-heavy and are very chemically stable.