• 1x 50ml Cquartz Skin Bottle

• 1x CarPro foam applicator block

• 5x 4” MF Suede applicators

• Reflective Cquartz hologram sticker

• Easy to use in wide range of temperatures.

• Unique UV resistant nano structure.

• Rich warm appearance.

• Easy maintenance with self cleaning properties.

• Repels UV rays, water, oils, dirt and other contaminants.

• Expected Durability: 2 years or more

• Average Thickness: 1-2 micron per coat

• Coverage: ~15ml per coat

• Water contact angle: 110 degree+

• Minor filling.

• Recommended working temperature: 10C ~ 30C.

1. Surface must be 100% clean and oil free by using CarPro Eraser.

2. Apply Cquartz Skin over a section in an even criss cross pattern.

3. Let flash for 3-5 minutes and then wipe off.

4. Second layer may be applied after 4 hours+

5. Full dry time 24 hours.

CARPRO SKIN FAQ📖

Well, this depends on many factors. Is the vehicle summer-driven or winter-driven? And how often it’s taken care of and topped up with Reload or Elixir. Normally for our climate in Canada, we often suggest applying 2 layers, it’s not going to double the longevity of the coating but perhaps still a good ~20%+ boost over a single-layer application. Since the vehicle is already clean and prepped, might as well do a second layer, preparation takes time but applying is easy. If the vehicle is summer only and maintained once a month then yes, the Skin will last at least 2 years and beyond fairly easily. But if it’s a daily that’s used throughout the year (especially winter), then maintenance will play a key role in longevity. If not maintained or topped up during winter months (I know it’s hard to do anything when it’s -30C out), then you’ll notice the lower sections will wear off from the salts, road chemicals, contaminants etc. Perhaps water beading will come back again after decontamination (coating plugged up with traffic film), but don’t be surprised if the lower sections are ‘gone’ after winter. And I think that’s fair and rightly so, considering the brutality of our winter here (in Calgary, at least). The most important part is, the coating did its job, it’s to wear off first before getting to the paint.

This depends on the ambient temperature. Normally it ranges between the suggested 3~5 minutes. The general rule of thumb is when wiping the coating off, it shouldn’t feel overly tacky, it should be somewhat easy to wipe off.

This is up to the debate, but personally, I suggest against it. The idea is, you want the coating to fully cure and harden first before applying anything over it. If Reload is applied too quickly, the solution can remove the Skin as you’re wiping. Just don’t do anything to it for a week. After that, you can spray all sorts of ceramic toppers no problem. So that brings us to the next question:

Yes, you're encouraged to layer, but not too quickly. Normally we suggest you wait anywhere between 2~4 hours in between layers, but preferably not over 24 hours. This is because if you waited too long, you’re applying the 2nd layer onto something that’s already hardened and slick, and it’s not going to bond too well. If applied too quickly, the solvents of the 2nd layer will soften the first layer and you end up with one layer. You want the 2nd layer to go on when the first layer is somewhat still curing, so they’re more cohesive; you want the coating to be still physically layerable but bond well at the same time.

A mid-sized vehicle, say a Camry, will consume about ~15ml per layer. A mid-sized SUV is around ~20ml and a full-sized truck 25~30ml.

You can layer it by itself (Skin) or topped with Gliss. Gliss helps with 'self-cleaning', it's just a slicker product that can shed 'stuff' off the paint faster, but less durable than the Skin.

A general rule of thumb: no water for 24~48 hours and no soap for a week.
But yes, after coating, you can take the vehicle out right away, dust & the wind won’t affect it, but be mindful that bugs will. If you’re a business and coating for a customer and the vehicle must leave and see water in the next 12 hours, then very gently wipe it down with Reload or Release. Still suggest against it, but what must be done, must be done. Drying and curing are very different: the coating/panel is dry to the touch right away but curing involves the locking of molecules, it needs time to cure.

At least 10C, but you can also try your luck between 5~10C. 25C is getting on the warmer side. Basically, you want the coating to be able to sit on the panel and not flash right away for at least 2-3 minutes. If it flashes in a minute, then the panel is likely too hot.

No, just make sure there’s no dust on the panel during application, and no water/moisture post-application.

Reload, Elixir, Reset, HydroFoam, Hydro2Lite etc., and as often as you like. The only product to be mindful of is Reset, make sure to follow the dilution instructions, too much of any soap can have an effect on the coating/wax/sealant, it’s a detergent after all.

Any pH-neutral soap is fine, Carpro recommends Reset and HydroFoam. Preferably no Wash and “Wax” products. I mean you can, but normally a wash and ‘wax’ product will mute the water-beading behaviour of your coating. Becomes less hydrophobic after wash, who would want that?!

It used to be 2 years, but Carpro no longer stamps an expiration date, because coatings are solvent based and very chemically stable. Let’s just say 2~3 years for now.

There’s no official word on this, but the general rule of thumb is that when you opened the bottle, solvents will start to escape and for some products and might start to crystalize from within the bottle. So, normally we suggest using up the bottle in 3 months. I personally have coatings from a while back, it still ‘works’, but boy was it hard to buff off (let’s just say it didn’t stay hydrophobic for too long).

Not this one here, PPF only (gloss, coloured, satin, matte films all ok).

Films are soft and porous, you want to coat them to prevent etching and contaminants getting absorbed into the film (bird poop, bug guts etc). Modern PPF films are already hydrophobic, but still, you should still apply something over it to prolong the film’s life.

No, but if you get it on there, just wipe it off, no harm done.

No.

No.

No.

Of course, it does! Coatings will give a ‘glassy’ finish vs waxes/sealant.
Even after polishing (or the film is new), the paint/film is still undulating microscopically, the coating can go in there to ‘fill’ and make the surface less undulating, meaning light reflects more evenly thus more gloss.

Yes but mostly no; coatings will do some filling naturally, but not enough to hide swirl marks/scratches.

Yes no problem, coatings are solvent-heavy and are very chemically stable.